We look out from our B&B at the Myklebustgletsjer, part of the Jostedal National Park with the gigantic ice sheet Jostedalsbreen (breen = glacier). It's about a two and a half to three hour drive to the other side of the National Park, where the Nigards- and Austdalsbreen are located. Where the Jostedal Breførerlag and Icetroll organize walks over the blue ice.
A delightful day trip, with a packed lunch including coffee and freshly baked bread from our B&B, and a breathtaking icy highlight...........
We left around nine o'clock. Backpacks with warm layers, gloves, hats, and provisions were packed, a good amount of enthusiasm in our minds, and coffee in the thermos flask. Exactly two hours and a quarter later, we drove onto the parking lot of the Breheimsenteret, near the Nigardsbreen. A building, according to the architect, with shapes inspired by the glacier, but to many others, it resembled a Viking helmet. There, we asked for the correct way to the meeting point with the guides. It was another ten minutes, and a narrow, winding road led us to a parking lot where we would meet the guide. Turning the car into a space there, we already had a beautiful view of the lake with the glacier to the right and a small boat rowing back and forth. We would later be transported across in that same boat.
But first we thought we should just check in. At a small building, with a sign 'guide', stood a woman with a stack of papers. More people were standing around her, presumably all wanting to go with the guide. How lucky we had booked in advance. We waited until it was our turn and showed her our booking confirmations. YES, we could join!!
Then it was time for the equipment. We all had to try on the spikes we had to put under our shoes, then they were adjusted to fit and we were given them, together with a pickaxe. If you didn't have gloves with you, you could borrow a pair, and there was just enough time for a last pee.
Our group of sixteen people left. Another group had just left a few minutes before us. After us, it would be quiet for a while. Walking along the water for a bit, we arrived at a small dock. There, the boat that would take us to the other side was docked. It was a short trip but with a view!!!
Once on the other side, we got out and one of the guides called out enthusiastically, Let's go!! He seemed to be really looking forward to it. We walked and climbed. Some parts were wet and slippery, but a warned person counts for two, so none of us ended up on our happy bottoms even once. Halfway through the walk, which would take about three-quarters of an hour, the guide called for a break. We could grab a sandwich if we wanted and take photos. Or ask him questions, because he was more than happy to share all his knowledge.
When it was time to move on, we soon found ourselves in an area off-limits to unaccompanied humans. The yellow and black chains with signs were hard to miss. We were led across a wobbly bridge and the chain was pulled behind us.
We came closer and closer to the glacier. At a small wooden hut, we stopped. In the hut were barrels with harnesses and ropes. Each of us got a harness, and we also had to attach our spikes. Then, with those things, we went to the edge of the ice to be hooked up to a long rope.
Then we did want to know a little more from our guide.
Or if it came from the Himalayas?
Yes sir.
Or if he had ever climbed Mount Everest.
Yes sir, only seven times.
So we had every confidence when our human slingshot went into motion and took to the ice.
We had to stamp a bit with our feet. The spikes needed to grip the ice securely. Too cautious steps would only increase the risk of slipping.
It was quite an adjustment. While you're gaping at all the ice around you, you also have to remember, like an elephant, to carefully place your feet. All while coordinating with the people hooked to the rope before and after you.
You really have to do it together.
Considering that you are walking on a dozens of meters thick layer of ice that is melting from above and below. You walk through small streams of water here and there, not fearing that the ice won't hold you. Stepping over cracks twenty meters deep, or more, where you can see the clear blue water below, so beautifully that it doesn't occur to you that it is also life-threatening.
The sense of time disappears effortlessly when realizing what you are doing.
The babble of excitement in many languages turns into fluent English when suddenly a section of the chain goes taut.
No one is left untouched and everyone is equally moved by the respect that nature once again commands. Overwhelming.
What a beauty.
What a vastness up there on that ice.
In a word; powerful!
After an hour and a half on the glacier, it was time to go back. Descending was, if anything, even more challenging than ascending, especially at the beginning. We also had to pass by a large hole in the ice, where some 'students' had to pull themselves up using ropes, spikes, and ice picks. Which, by the way, wasn't easy, thrusting an ice pick deep into the ice. We gave it a try. One by one, we also got the chance to look into the hole. While the other members of the human chain had to keep the rope taut. Trust. And so beautiful! After that, it was really time to get off the ice. Another long descent. We didn't even realize we had climbed so high.
After a good hike, we found ourselves back at the bottom of the glacier, where we could unhook ourselves from the long rope and return our equipment. We had to rinse the spikes off in the stream, where we immediately refilled our water bottles with the most delicious water in the world.
Then we took the same road back that we had come. Back to the boat and back to the parking lot. Where we returned our hiking poles and crampons and sincerely thanked the guides for their efforts and an unforgettable experience.
